Know What Normal Sounds Like 

     You don’t need to be a pump expert to catch problems. Just pay attention to how your system normally sounds and acts:

     Odd noises (grinding, squealing, or clunking) usually mean the submersible motor bearings are wearing out. Air spurts from faucets often indicate the pump isn’t fully primed or there’s an intake issue. Frequent on/off cycling typically points to a pressure tank problem or leak. Water that suddenly looks dirty means sediment’s getting past the intake.

     What I do: I check mine whenever I’m out that way — maybe once a season. Just walk up, listen for a few seconds when it kicks on, and look for anything obviously wrong.

Don’t Let the Intake Clog Up 

     That intake screen on your pump is a lot smaller than it looks, and it can choke up faster than you’d think. I’ve seen them plug in just a few months if the well’s pulling in sandy water or there’s iron floating around. New or shallow wells tend to stir up more grit, and if your well cap isn’t sealed tight, algae can sneak in and start growing inside.

     Here’s what I’ve picked up over the years: if your water pressure starts slipping or the pump seems to run longer each time before cutting off, there’s a fair chance the intake is partly blocked. A quick cleanout can stop the motor from working itself to death. And if dirty water’s a regular thing, stick a simple sediment filter near the pressure tank — it saves the pump from fighting debris all day.

Watch How Your System Behaves 

     A well pump in decent shape doesn’t really make a fuss. You should see steady pressure, usually somewhere in that 40–60 PSI range for home use, and it shouldn’t be switching on and off like it’s nervous. Quiet operation is another good sign — no weird hums, rumbles, or shakes.

     Every now and then, I’ll give mine a onceover: check the pressure tank’s cutin and cutout settings, hunt for slow leaks (even a tiny drip forces the pump to run extra), and if pressure tanks out of nowhere, bleed the air. If you find yourself fiddling with the pressure switch every week or hearing grinding noises, that’s your cue something’s off.

Winter and Corrosion Protection 

     If winters where you are dip below freezing, your pump needs some help staying alive. Aboveground pipes can freeze solid and crack, and ice forming around the wellhead isn’t doing the motor any favors either. Then there’s corrosion — water loaded with minerals chews through metal bits over time, especially if it’s acidic.

     What’s worked for me: wrap any exposed pipe and the wellhead before the cold sets in, and if you’ve got hard water, look into a housing that fights rust better. Once a year, when I’m already poking around, I’ll check for any rust buildup inside the pump. Oh, and one thing people mix up — a submersible sewer pump is a totally different animal. It’s made for waste, not clean well water, so don’t swap them.

Get a Professional Checkup 

I get that hiring a well tech isn’t cheap, but skipping it can cost more later. These guys spot stuff you’d never notice — like a submersible motor losing efficiency, worn impellers, or loose electrical bits that could turn dangerous.

Call them right away if the water cuts out completely, you smell something burning, hear banging or screeching, or the breaker keeps tripping. A good technician can also tell you if your pump’s just too old to fix and it’s time to upgrade.