COMMON PROBLEMS WITH SUBMERSIBLE SEWAGE PUMPS & HOW TO FIX THEM
It Starts With a Backup — Or a Strange Noise
You’re noticing something off. Maybe water’s backing up into the basement. Or that faint but unsettling gurgling noise is coming from the sewage pit. Perhaps the Submersible Sewage Pump just won’t kick on, even though you know it should be running.
If you’ve got a Submersible Sewage Pump in your home, cottage, or commercial space — especially if it’s tied to a submersible septic pump — you’ve probably dealt with one of these headaches before.
These pumps aren’t exactly the kind of thing most people think about every day. But when they stop working the way they’re supposed to, things can spiral pretty quickly.
In this post, I’m going to break down Common Problems of Submersible Sewage Pumps, what usually causes them, and how you can follow the Submerged Sewage Pump Problem Solution to troubleshoot or fix the issue — or at least know when it’s time to call in a pro.
We’ll also touch on some of the different types of pumps out there — like submersible sewage grinder pumps, submersible sewage cutter pump, and submersible macerator pumps — and why picking the right one matters, especially for tricky jobs.
And yes, I’ve included a couple of useful external links from reputable engineering and pump industry sources for anyone who wants to dig deeper.
What Is a Submersible Sewage Pump, Anyway?
Let’s keep it simple.
A submersible sewage pump
Unlike your average sump pump that just handles clear water, these pumps deal with sewage, sludge, and often solid waste. That’s why there are different types for different jobs:
- Submersible sewage grinder pump
– grinds solids into tiny bits so they can move through the pipes without clogging. - Submersible sewage cutter pump
– uses sharp blades to chop up wipes, rags, and other fibrous junk. - Submersible macerator pump
– similar to a grinder, but often used where space is tight, like in RVs or small bathrooms. - Submersible septic pump
– built more for handling lighter effluent or pre-treated waste from a septic tank.
If you’re running a basic home setup or a smaller septic system, finding the best submersible pump for septic tank
10 Real Problems People Run Into (And How to Handle Them)
Here’s the part you’ve probably been waiting for — a deep dive into Common Problems of Submersible Sewage Pumps that plague systems ranging from residential submersible septic pump setups to heavy-duty units like the submersible sewage cutter pump.
Below are the most common issues I’ve seen (and heard about) with Submersible Sewage Pump systems, along with practical, actionable steps drawn from proven Submerged Sewage Pump Problem Solution guidelines to help you figure out what’s going wrong.
The Pump Won’t Start
What it looks like:
Likely causes:
- Tripped breaker or blown fuse
- Bad or stuck float switch
- Damaged power cord
- Dead or burned-out motor
What to try first:
Start with the obvious. Go to your electrical panel and check if a breaker has tripped. Then take a look at the float — it might be stuck against the side of the pit or tangled up.
Also, check the power cord for damage. Animals love chewing on these things. If everything looksokay but it still won’t start, the motor might be done.
✅ Pro tip: Always plug your sewage pump into a GFCI outlet. Safety first.
It’s Running But Not Pumping Anything
What it looks like:
Likely causes:
- Something’s clogging the impeller or intake
- There’s no water in the pit (pump ran dry)
- Airlock in the discharge line
- The pump isn’t fully submerged
What to try:
Turn it off before you do anything. Check the intake for blockages. You’d be surprised what people find in there — from wipes to kids’ toys.
If it’s a septic or effluent pump, make sure there’s actually liquid covering the pump. And check for air bubbles or a kinked discharge line that might be stopping flow.
The Pump Keeps Turning On and Off
What it looks like:
Likely causes:
- A float switch that’s out of whack
- Pump is too small for the job
- Water level is too low, triggering rapid cycling
What to try:
Take a look at the float. Give it a wiggle. See if it moves freely. If it’s stuck or misaligned, it could be sending the wrong signal to the pump.
Also, make sure the pump you’ve got is rated for the volume of waste you’re dealing with. An undersized pump will cycle constantly — and wear itself out in no time.
Weird Noises or Excessive Vibration
What it looks like:
Likely causes:
- Solid object stuck in the impeller
- Worn bearings or misaligned parts
- Loose housing or components
What to try:
Turn the pump off right away. Listen closely. If it sounds like metal scraping, there’s likely something inside the impeller.
Check for debris. If the noise is more of a rumble or excessive vibration, something inside might be loose or worn out.
🔧 Grinder and cutter pumps are noisier by nature, but it shouldn’t sound like the motor is about to explode.
Overheating
What it looks like:
Likely causes:
- Running dry (no water in the pit)
- Blocked ventilation
- Pump running non-stop or overloaded
- Electrical issue
What to try:
Let it cool down before starting it again. Never let a sewage pump run without water — that’s a fast track to a burned-out motor.
Also, make sure the pump isn’t buried under muck or sludge, which can block airflow. If overheating keeps happening, there may be an electrical issue or you may need a new motor.
📘 For more technical info on pump heating and safety, check out ASME.org.
Leaking Around the Pump
What it looks like:
Likely causes:
- Cracked or corroded housing
- Worn-out seals or gaskets
- Loose connections or fittings
What to try:
Take a look at the pump body. Any visible cracks? Rust? That’s a bad sign, especially on older units.
Check the seals too. They tend to harden over time and start leaking. If the housing is cracked or you’re losing a lot of water, it might be time for a replacement.
Tripping the Breaker
What it looks like:
Likely causes:
- Electrical short in the pump
- Motor overload (often from a clog)
- Wrong voltage or bad power supply
What to try:
Don’t just keep resetting the breaker. That’s how electrical fires start.
Check the wiring and make sure the pump is getting the right voltage. If there’s a short or the motor’s pulling too much power (often from a blockage), you’ll need to fix that before resetting the breaker again.
Weak or No Flow
What it looks like:
Likely causes:
- Partial clog in the discharge pipe
- Wrong pump for the job (undersized)
- Worn-out impeller
What to try:
Check the discharge line for kinks, clogs, or a failed check valve.
If the pump is too small for the height it’s pushing or the volume it’s handling, it won’t keep up. A worn impeller can also slow things way down.
Foul Smells
What it looks like:
Likely causes:
- Stagnant waste that’s not being pumped out
- Failed or worn seals letting sewage leak
- Infrequent pump cycles
What to try:
Make sure your pump is running on a regular schedule — especially for septic systems.
Clean out any buildup in the pit. And if the seals are shot, they’ll need to be replaced to stop leaks and smells.
The Motor Dies Too Soon
What it looks like:
Likely causes:
- Constantly running dry or overloaded
- Poor power quality (surges, low voltage)
- Cheap or poorly maintained pump
What to try:
Invest in a pump that’s built for the job you’re asking it to do. If you’re dealing with heavy solids, a submersible sewage grinder pump
Also, protect your system from electrical surges, and don’t let the pump run without water.
A Few Quick Tips to Keep Your Submersible Sewage Pump Running Longer
- Check the pit and pump regularly for debris or buildup.
- Test the float and pump operation every few months.
- Make sure the discharge line is clear and the check valve works.
- Replace seals or gaskets before they fail completely.
- Consider adding a backup pump or alarm if it’s a critical system.
These are great for anyone who wants to go beyond the basics.
In Short: What You Really Need to Know adout Submersible Sewage pump
| Problem | Likely Cause | What to Do |
| Won’t start | Power or float issue | Check breakers, cord, and float |
| Running but no flow | Clog or airlock | Clear blockage, check water level |
| Short cycling | Wrong size or bad float | Adjust or upgrade pump |
| Strange noise | Debris or worn parts | Turn off and inspect |
| Overheating | Dry run or blocked vent | Let cool, check airflow |
| Leaking | Cracked housing or seals | Inspect and replace |
| Breaker trips | Electrical fault | Don’t reset repeatedly |
| Weak flow | Clog or weak pump | Check pipes and impeller |
| Foul smell | Stagnant waste or leaks | Pump regularly, fix seals |
| Motor dies fast | Overuse or poor power | Use right pump, protect from surges |
VIRHEOS
Resources
- Angi – What Is a Sewage Ejector Pump and How Does It Work?-Content Highlights: A popular science article for home users, explaining the working principle of submersible sewage pumps, single/double seal designs, and the differences between grinding type and standard type.